This is my 3rd suit from Raymonds and while their fabric is all good, I am not at all happy with their tailoring. Let me give a few instances
1. At the most basic, the tailors have no clue what the ideal length of a suit should be.The length of the suit jacket should be in line with your extended thumb when you place your arms parallel to your body and it should just cover your buttocks; whichever is longer. The one in Guwahati made it a tad shorter and it doesn’t completely cover my buttocks and the one in Ahmedabad made it way longer and then I had to ask him to cut it short.
2. The two suits bought from Guwahati have abysmal buttons which lost their color in the top after 2-3 dry clean (bear in mind that I spent upwards of Rs 40,ooo on the two suit combined. At that price you can throw in a few good button at least).
3. The tailors have a tendency to slightly curve the outer edge of the lapel. I am not sure what style that is but it sure is more than a decade old. That lapel should be a straight line and no curve on the edge of the lapel.
4. Shirt collars : They (tailors at Raymonds) know just one collar Make it as huge as you possibly can and curve it on the outer edge giving a perfect 80s look. Now those collars are out of fashion. Personally I like my collars straight (like Neal Caffrey aka Matt Bomer in White Collar) or slightly spread (Harvey Spector in Suits). Even the spread curved collar (like Moriarty in Sherlock) is cool but I that wouldn’t suit my bulky frame and round face. Even after repeated instructions on how I want my collar, it still is the same curved at the edge nonsense that these tailors learnt when they first started their trade.
5. Hara-kiri on the lapel: The lapel should be an easy thing to do, but not for the Raymonds people in Ahmedabad. First, they made a really wide lapel, it still is wider than my other suits even after I asked them to slim it up. Then the line where the lapel meets the collar is not done straight, the collar line is slightly above the line where the lapel and collar meet. Now, I don’t know how someone can get that wrong, but Raymonds did. Also, these days, the notch is slightly higher but our Raymonds people are still stuck up in the 90s; they cannot and will not learn anything new.
6. Buttons on the sleeve: A lot of bespoke suits have functional buttons; buttons that you can actually open or close. So I thought why not get one for myself; the suit is certainly not bespoke but what the heck. I had asked Raymonds (Ahmedabad) to make the buttons functional and reminded the tailors thrice and yet on final delivery; the buttons are the usual, the ones you can’t open.
Raymonds is not doing anything to train its tailors and I have idea why. Styles change so frequently and yet their tailors are still stuck up in their decades old mindset. I don’t think I am going to Raymonds ever again to get a suit. I have had enough.
And finally, pocket squares. Yes, check out the pocket square collection at Raymonds in Ahmedabad and you might throw up. The pocket squares have some multi coloured patterns drawn on them – may be Gujaratis like those. I have seen way better squares at Turtle and that is where I am going to pick up pocket squares from. Good bye Raymonds, it certainly wasn’t a pleasure meeting you.